Introduction

Prior to Federation, the journey to Port Stephens from Sydney or the Newcastle region was a major adventure. Getting there was part of the fun. As there was only one road in, which was located on the northern side of the harbour, most travel was by boat on the waters of Port Stephens.

Once at the Port, swimming, fishing and shooting were the main activities engaged in.

At the time this travel article was published in 1889, there was little settlement at Port Stephens. Apart from fishing and oyster cultivation, the other major business activities centred on the timber industry on the northern side of the harbour

A number of early travel articles are published on this website. All tell a similar story of adventure and paint a picture of what life was like at Port Stephens in earlier times. These can be found at the following links:

A journey from Port Stephens up the Myall Lakes to Forster – 1908;

Excursions from Newcastle to Port Stephens by Sea;

The Lakes Travel Route to Mid-North Coast – 1907.

This story, as per the following newspaper article, tells of the adventures of a party of some fourteen people, of various ages, as they journeyed from Maitland to the waters of Port Stephens, over a ten-day period in May 1889.

Not all the participants were present for the full ten days, with some joining at various intervals.

The newspaper report was published in the Maitland Mercury and Hunter River General Advertiser of 25 May 1889, page 4. The author assigns some interesting nicknames for each of the participants in lieu of publishing their real names.

Beginning of the trip at Maitland

‘All preparations were made, everything was ready for a start at daylight one Wednesday, intense excitement among the boys, four in number, when, alas! daylight brought pouring rain ; so, after waiting anxiously watching the weather till 8 a.m., for a clear up, which did not come, having breakfasted we started in the rain, bound for the Port, dashing bravely down Lawes-street, East Maitland, amid the cheers and grins of the boys. With double buggy and pair of horses, a party of five, four boys and the “Mother,” we reached the [Raymond] Terrace, crossed the Hunter River in a steam punt, called at Morgan’s hotel to see if Mr. R—-was there, heard he had come and gone, so we followed in his tracks across the great moor, 22 miles of level country, all scrub, sand, and swamp ; heavy pulling for the horses, but plenty of birds for the three small boys, who, catapult in hand, waded through the wet bushes, keeping up with the buggy easily, as the pace was slow owing to the heavy sand.

Our biggest boy, “the Banker,” who, by the way, was our Jehu’ [reckless coachman] brought his horses along with patience and skill. Considering a catapult beneath him, he brought out his breech-loader gun, when some green parrots appeared, but catapult and breech-loader failed to bring any game to the buggy.

Moffat’s Swamp, the half-way, was reached, where the correct thing would have been to camp, boil the ” billy,” and have lunch, but the rain still keeping on in drizzling showers, we thought it wiser to push on, arriving at Mr. R—’s, Port Stephens [on the northern side of the port], a little after two p.m., all feeling rather damp, overcoats and umbrellas having failed to keep out the rain. However, a warm welcome from Mr. and Mrs. R—, and some hot tea from the latter, made us forget a rather dreary drive.

First Day at Port Stephens

We were soon established in our old quarters, and ere long the restless or adventurous spirits of the boys, headed by ” Banker,” took them all down to the wharf, from thence into Mr. R—’s dingy, and off to Tilligerry Creek to fish, and try the effect of some new idea the “Banker” had in a fishing line ; the “Mother” and her youngest charge contented themselves by oyster hunting on some rocks not far off. The rain had stopped as soon as we reached our destination.

The shades of evening saw us all gathered round the tea table, the boys producing two fish, the result of their fishing trip. After tea, while chatting with Mr. R—, the subject of camping out was broached; he seemed to like the idea, and he thought it might be done when the P.M. came.

Second Day at Port Stephens

Thursday morning saw the young fry astir early, out in the boat soon after six, fishing for toadies and jelly fish; the “Mother” and “Banker,” after a bathe in the invigorating waters of the Port, felt fresh and ready for breakfast. Then Mr. R—, with his usual kindly spirit, invited us all on board the yacht, bound for a day’s fishing off Cabbage Tree Island, our party was now increased by two more young gentlemen, who were away at Nelson’s Bay when we arrived the evening before.

We were not more than half-way across the bay when great excitement prevailed among the boys. Seven or eight black swans were on the water quite close. “Banker” had his gun out, small boys their catapults, and ” bang” from the gun, and one poor swan drooped his graceful neck to rise no more. “About, yacht,” is the cry, and all hands are reached overboard to grab the bird as he floats by. That honour fell to the outstretched hand of the “Mother.” Fishing is now quite forgotten; all beg Mr. R— to “after the swans,” which are still swimming not very far off. “Bang” again from the “Banker,” but this time one, two, three ” bangs before another swan falls to his gun. Again the “Mother’s” hand is the one that clutches the struggling bird, all the boys being in such wild excitement, not one could catch hold quick enough.

The remaining swans took their departure after this, having had enough of the breech-loader, so Mr. R— proposed making another tack, and bringing up at Cabbage Tree Island, we all landed, fire was lighted, tea made, and lunch spread out, for which we were quite ready. After that some went oyster-hunting; of oysters there were an abundance; some returned to the yacht to try fishing till the afternoon was well on, and our captain (Mr. R—) ordered all on board, and across the bay home, where we arrived without further excitement. We found the P.M. with his son and Billy had just come.

The proposed camping out was soon the chief topic of conversation, and the P.M. had to be taken off to inspect Mr. R—’s new yacht, “The Palace,” our future home should we go camping. The Palace is a roomy affair, with two cabins, four comfortable bunks in each, a kitchen stove and all the appliances for cooking, and plenty of room for moving about on the deck. We are delighted with it, and Mr. R— tells us everything shall be in readiness for a start in the morning.

Third Day at Port Stephens

Friday morning saw the young ones lively, as usual, and down at the wharf by 6 a.m. after toadies and jellyfish, their great amusement. Canute and his chum Billy were off with their guns to look for a shot. The breakfast bell brought them all together, and after that all was bustle and excitement, getting what we thought we should require for a three days’ trip on board the Palace. All aboard and off from the wharf by 10 a.m., our captain for the trip, Mr. R—, not forgetting to drink our health, with good luck to the voyage, as we pushed or rather poled out into the stream; to whistle for a wind, the boys said. It soon came in the shape of a westerly, just what we wanted to sail down to the mouth of the Myall River, where we thought of dropping anchor, as good fishing and shooting are said to be had there.

Away we sail across the first bay to Soldier’s Point, where we lost the breeze, and the long poles and sweep oar are got out, and the captain and his crew, consisting of the man Magnus and the boys, eight in number, are hard at work. The P.M., not to be outdone by the young ones, seizes a pole vigorously, but he was too powerful, and presently with a huge splash disappeared over the bow. “Banker” runs to the rescue with the long pole he is using, and assists the now drenched P.M. on boar again, very thankful he is not grabbed by a shark.

View from Soldiers Point in 1934 [State Library of New South Wales]

Soon all his garments hung from the boom; and, a slight breeze getting up, we slowly sailed down Nelson’s Bay. A lovely view opens out, the bold bluffs of the heads away in the far end of the bay, with Broughton’s Island [actually Boondelbah Island] beyond making a grand picture. But I fear all this was lost on the boys. They got weary of our slow progress, for the breeze was very light, some of them proposed taking the boat we had towing behind, pulling off to some of the fishing grounds, and catching some fish for tea. So off five or six went, the P.M. with them, while we on the Palace still slowly but surely kept on for the mouth of the Myall, where Captain R— intended to drop anchor.

Here a little diversion occurred by the arrival of a small fishing boat with R. B. H. on board, whom we had been expecting. He came by the Kingsley steamer from Newcastle, and had been searching for our party, he making our number up to fourteen. Now at last we reach the Myall River, a wide stretch of water with low, sandy banks, on which all kinds of water birds seem to abound. We dropped anchor off a clean, sandy beach, a fine place for the small boys to run about and bathe, while across a narrow strip of sand and scrub, not more than ten minutes walk, the bigger ones could have a grand dip in the breakers rolling in from the heads, if they were so inclined.

Evening brought the fishing party back, not having been very successful, and soon all were gathered on deck round the cuddy roof, where a liberal meal was spread, prepared by Magnus and the ” Mother” (head cooks for the trip). Night closed in so quickly, the ship’s lantern had to be hoisted overhead, to enable us to finish and have the general wash up of tea things, &c. , a disagreeable but very necessary part in the day’s programme, and usually performed by the two cooks. Everything made snug and tidy, we all thought of turning in, the long day in the open air making all tired and sleepy. Very comfortable we found our bunks, and although a gale came up in the night, with rain, giving our captain some anxiety as to the safety of his vessel, I do not think many heard or felt the rolling motion of the waves, only the ” Mother,” who was thankful when they moved into quieter waters.

Fourth Day at Port Stephens

Saturday morning at daylight found the Palace high and dry on the sand, the tide having run out. Some of our party went off shooting, others had their lines out, and others away to the breakers for a bathe; then breakfast, again spread out on the cuddy roof, which made a grand table, all, a very merry party, making plans as to how the day was to be spent. It promised to be a lovely bright one, the night rain having all cleared off. The captain, after a consultation with the cooks, found the larder was getting low, and said he must go up the river to Tea Gardens (a little township on the Myall River) to lay in a further supply, so a boat full went off to Tea Gardens, about six miles up the river, with guns and fishing tackle; two or three took lines to a distant point, said to be a good one for whiting; the ” Mother” and little Podge, the youngest of our party, made for the breakers, and had a most refreshing dip in the sea, keeping a good look-out for sharks, as the captain tells us the port is full of them.

Pangs of hunger make us remember it is lunch time, so we make our way back to the Palace, but the tide having come up she was out a long way from shore. How to get the “Mother” on board is now the puzzle; the boys could have waded. However, a small fishing boat coming up solved the difficulty, by pulling all on board, the owner in payment requesting we should buy his fish, which we made no objection to, as they were beauties— all alive and kicking, and a good addition, the cooks thought, to the tea table.

3 p.m. saw the Tea Garden party back, all ravenously hungry, so the “billy” was boiled again with all speed, and some eatables spread out for them, the captain bringing some valuable additions to our table, such as fresh butter, biscuits, and beef. The appetites of the boating party being appeased, they went off fishing again, returning this time with some live fish, and the sportsmen Billy and Canute produced some birds, so we were getting on better we thought in the provision line, and starvation did not seem so near.

Shades of evening again came on before we could get our numerous boys assembled for tea (we had them all sizes, from 6 to 50). The ship’s lantern again hung over head, and with laughs and jokes and hearty appetites, we got through tea. The fish, by the way, were splendid, all praise being granted to the cooks for the skill they displayed in their department.

Fifth Day at Port Stephens

Sunday (Easter Day, which I do not think many remembered) found all our party lively and jolly, bent on their different ideas of amusement. Soon a procession, headed by the P.M., R. B. H., ” Banker,” and various of the younger fry, disappear over the sand ridge, with towels round their necks, evidently bent on a bath. This sight reminds the cooks that ere long there will be vigorous calls for breakfast, and that they must hurry up with their pots and pans. By the time the bathers return, the good things of the kitchen are displayed on our table—the cuddy roof,— the empty dishes proving the keen appetites of all.

Some again go off with the boat fishing, taking some lunch with them, as they may not return to the Palace till evening. A good breeze getting up, the captain proposes moving our camping ground to another bay known as Pig Station. So up with the anchor, and we swing round into the stream, and after a two hours’ sail arrive at the bay—a fine, sandy beach, and thick bush beyond. The captain ran the Palace right on the sand, where the retreating tide soon left us high and dry. The youngsters are soon overboard, racing over the sands searching for crabs and toadies, and all sorts of sea treasures, also for Podgie’s catapult, which shot away out of his hand just before we ran ashore, which he hopes might wash in on the waves.

The bush seems full of birds, and their wild cries soon attracted our three guns (“Banker,” Billy, and Canute). Bang! bang! went the guns in all directions, and after a while the sportsmen return with a collection of birds unknown to the writer of this, but they were all plucked and reserved for breakfast, as the day was now drawing to a close. We gathered round the tea board, all agreeing they are thoroughly enjoying themselves and having a first rate change from the busy toils of life.

After tea there was just enough light for “Banker” and R. B. H. to set the “new idea” fishing line, which they did, hoping for a good haul of fish in the morning. Once more we all turn into our respective bunks and slept the sleep of the just.

Sixth Day at Port Stephens

Monday we were all roused by “Banker” and R. B. H. going out in the boat to inspect their line. But alas! where are the fish? The line was all broken, only a small portion remaining tied to the stake; they pulled back to the Palace with sad faces, and bore the grins and jeers of the small boys heroically. A plunge in the sparkling water off the Palace somewhat restored them, and the call of breakfast brought all together again, fresh and jolly; but very soiled and grubby in appearance, all the garments beginning to have a decided camping out look about them.

Breakfast over, the first break-up in our party commences. We have to say farewell to R. B.H. and two others. Gus has proved himself a great man at the oar, and Ernest was a mate for Oscar and Arthur. All were sorry to say good-bye, and break up our jolly camp. But 10 a.m. saw them well away, with Magnus, “Banker,” and Canute, bound for the steamer Kingsley, now lying off Nelson’s Point.

We only waited till the tide floated us, and then we moved nearer home, putting up at Soldier’s Point, where it was suggested, we might try for some fish and have lunch, which we accordingly did. The three small boys were very soon paddling across to Middle Island with their bare feet, just as pleased to hook a toady as the big boys would be over a schnapper.

3 p.m., the small boat returned with Magnus, “Banker,” and Canute. Our captain, being afraid of the breeze dropping, hauled up the anchor, and we made for Rooke’s Point, leaving the small boat to follow, the P.M. having taken the place of Magnus. We reached the wharf without further excitement, except that Podgie’s hat fell overboard and disappeared in the waves, poor Podge remarking that he had the bad luck of the party in losing his catapult and hat.

So comfortable had we been on our Palace, we decided to spend this (our last night) on board. So soon the cooks were busy with preparations for tea, the captain bringing some additions to our table from the house, in the shape of fish, milk, butler, bread, and a nicely cooked swan, a present from Mrs. H. to the boys, and which they thoroughly appreciated. Tea being ready, we only waited for the boat, which soon appeared, ” Banker” bringing her across the bay with all sails set in fine style. For the last time we assembled round the cuddy roof, then after chatting for a while we all turned in.

Seventh Day at Port Stephens

On Tuesday morning we were roused by the voice of our cheery captain telling us that Mrs. R. will have breakfast ready up at the house, but Canute and Billy finding Mr. H. and Magnus are going out in one of the boats oystering cleared off with them, taking their guns in the hope of getting a swan. The remainder of our now diminished party made our way up to the house. Breakfast over, the “Mother” was invited by the three small boys to come for a pull in the dingy, while ” Banker,” the P.M., and Mr. R. went fishing in another boat, they (the “Banker” and the P.M.) having a few hours to dispose of before they, too, must leave us and return to work.

Midday saw our fishermen back with a few fish, and almost at the same time we saw the two sportsmen (Canute and Billy) returning, not having been successful in swan hunting. After a hurried lunch, the P.M. and “Banker” took their departure, the “Mother” and small boys promising to follow them on Saturday. Presently there is a call from someone that the P.M. is back again; upon going out we found his horse was dead lame, and he had come back for another, which was soon caught, and he and the “Banker” made another start.

A good breeze now springing up, Billy and Canute coaxed Mr. R. to take them for a sail up Tilligerry Creek, while the “mother” and small boys spent the afternoon on the wharf, the boys all going in for a bathe and then fishing. They caught quiet a number of bream and pigfish off the wharf. Evening saw us all together again, and very soon after tea in bed, the Port Stephens air making us all very sleepy.

Eighth Day at Port Stephens

On Wednesday we were all awake early and out in the fresh morning air, the boys quite revelling in the free life they led here. Two are off in the dingy soon after six o’clock with guns and fishing lines, the small ones down at the wharf also fishing, the ” Mother” after a delightful bathe joining them till the breakfast bell calls all back to the house. After breakfast we consult Mr. R— as to how the day is to be spent. We suggest all going in the yacht to Bluff Head schnapper fishing. So as soon as we secure the lunch basket off we go, the small boys requesting the “Mother” to bring her frying pan and cook the fish they have been catching off the wharf for dinner.

A fine breeze is blowing, and the bay looks lovely in the morning lights and shades. We soon sail across to Soldier’s Point and then into Nelson’s Bay, where we suddenly loose the breeze, and the long sweeps have to be got out. Mr. R—with his crew (Canute and Billy) stick manfully to them till we drop anchor off the Bluff. Here we see shoals of some large kind of fish leaping out of the water. The boat gets so close to them Canute tries a shot, but if he did shoot any, we did not get them. Now lines are out, and we are all busy schnapper fishing. The ” Mother” hauls in the first, and soon cries of ” I’ve got one!” are heard all round: even little Podge lands 3 or 4.

It is time for lunch, so the ” Mother,” frying pan, and Billy are put ashore with enough of the freshly caught fish to cook for dinner. They are highly appreciated, and as the fish continue biting all stick to their lines till three p.m., when Mr. R— thinks he sees a gale coming up, and it will be wiser to get nearer home. So with all sails set we run before the wind till we come to Cromarty’s Bay, when the boys make out a lot of swans, and beg Mr. R— to let them have a shot.

As we are in sight of home, and the gale does not seem any nearer, we draw in close to shore, drop anchor, and Billy and Canute are off in the dingy (which we had in tow), to sneak the swans. But they do not get near enough for a shot and have to return to the yacht empty handed. We soon run across to the wharf in good time for tea, having had a very pleasant day. After tea we join Mr. R— in a game of nap, till sundry yawns remind us the “dustman” is getting in the youthful eyes of the boys, so we retire for the night.

Nineth Day at Port Stephens

On Thursday all are out early, and the breakfast bell has to be rung loudly before the boys can be enticed to leave the water and the fishing and boating they are occupied with. However, breakfast is over by 9 a.m., and Mr. R— proposes—there being a good wind—that we all go out in the yacht and hunt the swans in Cromarty’s Bay. We are soon on board and running before a good breeze reach the entrance to the Bay, where at least some hundred of swan are seen at the far end. Billy and Canute are all eagerness to be at them. So the ” Mother” and small boys, with lunch box, etc., are landed on a rocky point where oysters abound, while Mr. R— and the two sportsmen glide slowly down the bay after the birds. Soon a perfect cloud of them fly overhead with shrill cries and flapping wings, and we fear the boys will not get near enough for a shot. But presently we see them pulling their hardest full chase after one swan coming back towards the point where we are camped. We have a good view of the chase, which after five shots falls to Billy’s gun.

They are by this time quite close to us, so pull ashore, and Billy proudly exhibits his bird. They tell us they have left poor Mr. R— with the yacht stuck fast in the mud, and then they took the dingy and must now return and see if they can help him push her off. On the way back Canute shot a “musk duck,” a large bird more the size of a goose. The small boys now turn their attention to oysters, and soon a fire is lighted, and they are very busy knocking off oysters and roasting them. At 1 p.m. we begin to think it is lunch time. We can see the yacht still motionless in the far end of the bay where she is likely to remain until high tide. So the mother and boys have their lunch, and it is 3 p.m. before the yacht makes her way slowly back, the wind having dropped. Mr. R— and one sportsman are starving, they say, so all that is left of the lunch is speedily spread before them. Then Mr. R—says he knows where some oranges are, so disappears in the bush with all the boys in attendance returning with the billycan full of half ripe looking fruit, but which we all think very good.

We then get on board and make for home, with scarcely enough wind to take us across. When we reach the wharf the tide being high and the bathing place looking very inviting all the boys go in for a swim. Podge is beginning to go a few strokes without touching bottom, of which he is very proud. The tea bell rings before they have quite finished so that they have to hurry up, and after tea Oscar begs for a game of nap. Mr. R— joining us we play for a while and then bed. To-morrow being our last day, the boys are anxious to make the most of it but cannot quite decide what is best.

Tenth Day at Port Stephens

On Friday morning, there is a very high tide. All the boys are tempted in for a bathe, which keeps them busy till breakfast, and then a good breeze from the west getting up Mr. R— says we had better take the yacht and go swan hunting again over at Fame Cove and Bundabah Creek. So, this time taking Magnus we soon get away, and after a splendid sail across the lovely port, we reach Bundabah, which as you get close, opens out into quite a large bay, with the creek at the extreme end. Here we come upon a sight new to the ” Mother” and boys — hundreds and hundreds of swans —the water is quite black with them. By Mr R ‘s advice Canute and Billy get into the dingy with their guns, and Magnus to pull, to try and get a shot at the birds, while we put about in the yacht and eagerly watch the boat.

But the swans evidently know what a boat means, for presently with a great flapping of wings and shrill cries, they rise in one cloud and fly away overhead. It was a lovely sight to see these great birds spread their snowy wings and with necks outstretched sail slowly down the bay. Even Mr R. who must have often seen the same before, was roused into admiration, and said it was like a beautiful picture. But to return to our “guns” they did not see much beauty in the swans all clearing off. But three birds remaining by themselves, urged the sportsmen on as hard as Magnus could pull after them. These ill-mannered birds also rise their wings before they are near enough for a shot, and in the excitement of the chase the boys rushed the boat full speed on to a mud flat and stuck fast, till after vainly trying to push off with the oars, they have to jump into the water and pull her along by main force.

After that they very tamely returned to the yacht, and Mr R. suggested we should go to Fame Cove, land there for lunch, and try fishing, which we did. Fame Cove is a lovely little bay, with beautiful ferns, and cabbage tree palms growing right down to the water’s edge. Some spent the afternoon strolling about the bush, and getting oysters off the rocks, and some remained fishing off the yacht, but the fish did not bite very well, not more than six or eight schnapper or squire being caught.

At 4 p.m. we were all called on board and commenced the return trip; but the breeze soon quite died away, and the long sweeps are got out and skilfully handled by Mr R— and Magnus, occasionally relieved by the boys. We make but slow progress, and shades of evening are closing round us. By the time we reach R. Point we can scarcely make out the wharf. We are all quite ready for tea, and enjoyed Canute’s musk duck, which Mrs R— had cooked very nicely for us. After tea, bed for the small boys, while Canute and Billy go off with Magnus to have a draw with the net. They return at 11 p.m. having been up Tilligerry Creek, and after two or three draws secure fifteen good-sized fish, all sorts.

Return to Maitland

Saturday morning, our last here, saw all down at the wharf early revelling in a bathe, the tide being high and the bathing place brimming over. After breakfast we are all busy packing up and collecting our various belongings, and by 10 a.m., the horses being ready, we say farewell to Port Stephens, and make our way back to town and business, having had a splendid change and altogether a good time, the ” Mother” and boys unanimously agree.’

Concluding Comments

This excursion to Port Stephens shows how each member of the group participated in their own recreational activities.  Be it swimming, fishing and/or shooting for both pleasure and to provide food, a great adventure was had along the way.

Researched and complied by Kevin McGuinness

June 2024